Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
